The Salem Custom House: History and Hawthorne’s Inspiration


The Custom House in Salem, Massachusetts, stands as a symbol of early American commerce and governance, as well as a link to one of the nation’s most well-known authors, Nathaniel Hawthorne. Built in 1819, this Federal-style structure once played a vital role in Salem’s importance as a major seaport in the early days of the United States. The construction of the Custom House was a direct response to Salem’s rapidly growing international trade and the federal government’s need to regulate and tax the goods entering the country’s ports.

Located on Derby Street within the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, The Custom House remains one of the city’s most iconic historical sites. Although it is no longer used as a tax collection building, The Custom House represents a key chapter in Salem’s maritime history and also holds a special place in American literature due to Nathaniel Hawthorne, who worked there as a surveyor in the mid-19th century. Hawthorne’s time at The Custom House had a major impact on his writing, particularly in the introduction to his book The Scarlet Letter.

As you continue reading, you will learn about The Custom House’s historical importance, its role in the life of Nathaniel Hawthorne, and its lasting legacy as part of the Salem National Historic Site.

Historical Background of Salem

Salem Massachusetts Over head view

Salem, Massachusetts, is best known today for its infamous witch trials of 1692, but by the late 18th century, the city had evolved far beyond its Puritan roots. Salem had turned into one of the most important ports in the United States, and it was from these docks that ships set sail to destinations such as Asia, Europe, and Africa. Salem’s maritime power was driven by its location, merchants, and the profitability of exotic goods such as spices, silks, and teas. These international trades made Salem one of the wealthiest cities in the United States during the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

At the time, international trade was essential to the economic success of the United States. The federal government, still in its early stages, depended heavily on taxes for imported goods. These taxes helped fund the government’s operations and allowed for the development of infrastructure, the payment of debts incurred during the Revolutionary War, and the defense of the nation’s borders.

Salem’s port was one of the busiest in the country, and as a result, the federal government established a customs office there to ensure that imported goods were properly taxed. Before the construction of The Custom House, customs officials worked in smaller, less formal settings. However, by the early 19th century, Salem’s importance as a trading port necessitated a larger, more permanent building to house the customs office. The Custom House was built in 1819, symbolizing Salem’s economic growth and the government’s commitment to regulating and benefiting from international trade.

The Construction and Architecture of The Custom House

Salem Maritime National Historic Site
Photo credit: NPPLAN

The Custom House was designed in Federal-style architecture, which was popular in the United States during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. This architectural style emphasized symmetry, proportion, and the use of classical elements such as columns, pediments, and arches. The Federal style was heavily influenced by ancient Roman and Greek architecture, which was seen as incorporating the ideals of democracy that were central to America’s politics.

The exterior of The Custom House is made of brick, which was a common building material in the early 19th century. The building’s facade features large arched windows, which provide natural light to its interior spaces. Above the entrance, there is a plaque with the words “Custom House,” making it clear that this structure was an important government building.

One of the most distinctive features of The Custom House is the large, gilded eagle that sits on top of the building. This eagle, with its wings spread and its head facing outward toward the harbor, is a powerful symbol of the federal government’s authority. The eagle was a common figure in American architecture during this period, representing strength, vigilance, and the nation’s independence. In the case of The Custom House, the eagle also served as a reminder to merchants and sailors that the federal government was watching over the nation’s ports and ensuring that all the goods entering the country were properly taxed.

The interior of The Custom House was designed to accommodate the various administrative jobs of the customs officials. The main floor contained offices for the collector of customs, the surveyor, and other officials responsible for assessing and collecting taxes on imported goods.

In addition to the offices, The Custom House also contained a large hall where goods could be inspected and weighed. This hall was essential to the operation of the customs office, as officials needed a space where they could examine the contents of ships’ cargoes and determine the appropriate taxes. The process of inspecting goods was meticulous, as officials had to ensure that merchants were not smuggling contraband or underreporting the value of their goods to avoid paying taxes.

Functionality and Operation of The Custom House

The Custom House Salem Massachusetts
Photo Credit: Wiki

During its prime years, The Custom House was a busy center of economic activity. Salem’s port was one of the busiest in the country, and customs officials at The Custom House were responsible for ensuring that all goods entering the Salem port were properly taxed. This was no easy task, as Salem was a hub for international trade, with ships constantly arriving from all over the world.

The primary job of The Custom House was to collect customs duties, which were taxes on imported goods. These taxes were an important source of revenue for the federal government, specifically in the years before the establishment of an income tax. Customs taxes helped fund the federal government’s operations, including the construction of roads and bridges, the maintenance of lighthouses, and the expansion of the United States Navy.

The process of collecting customs taxes was complex and required administrative oversight. When a ship arrived in Salem’s harbor, its cargo would be offloaded and taken to The Custom House for inspection. Customs officials would examine the goods and determine the value of the cargo. Based on this valuation, the officials would calculate the appropriate tax to be paid by the merchant.

In addition to assessing duties, customs officials at The Custom House were responsible for enforcing trade laws and preventing smuggling. Smuggling was a common problem in the early 19th century, as some merchants sought to dodge taxes by secretly bringing goods into the country without declaring them. Customs officials had to be vigilant in their efforts to detect and prevent smuggling, often conducting thorough inspections of ships and their cargoes to ensure that all goods were properly accounted for.

The work of customs officials was not without challenges. The volume of goods passing through Salem’s port meant that officials were often overwhelmed with paperwork and inspections. In addition, the nature of international trade meant that officials had to be familiar with the laws and regulations of different countries, as well as the fluctuating values of goods in the global market. This required a great deal of expertise and attention to detail, as mistakes in the valuation of goods could result in lost revenue for the government.

Despite these challenges, The Custom House played a major role in the economic life of Salem and the United States as a whole. By ensuring that taxes were properly collected, the officials at The Custom House helped to support the federal government and maintain the nation’s economic stability.

The Decline of The Custom House and Salem’s Port

The Custom House Salem Massachusetts Port Salem
Photo Credit: Lost New England

As the 19th century progressed, Salem’s importance as a major trading port began to decline. Several factors contributed to this decline, including the rise of larger ports such as Boston and New York, which were better equipped to handle the increasing volume of international trade. The development of new transportation technologies, such as the railroad and the steamship, also played a role in shifting the focus of trade away from Salem.

By the mid-19th century, Salem’s port had become less active, and The Custom House saw a decline in its importance. Although it continued to operate as a customs office, the volume of goods passing through Salem had declined significantly, and the building’s role in the nation’s economy was greatly reduced.

Despite this decline, The Custom House remained an important symbol of Salem’s past. Its Federal architecture and location on Derby Street served as a reminder of the city’s once-great influence in international trade. In the years following its decline as a customs office, The Custom House was repurposed for various functions, but it never regained the central role it once had during the early 19th century.

Nathaniel Hawthorne and The Custom House

Nathaniel Hawthorne Salem house of the seven gables

One of the most significant chapters in the history of The Custom House is its connection to Nathaniel Hawthorne, one of America’s most famous authors. Hawthorne worked as a surveyor at The Custom House from 1846 to 1849, a period during which he was struggling to support his family through his writing. Nathaniel’s time at The Custom House had a major impact on his writing career, sparking the inspiration for one of his most famous books, The Scarlet Letter.

Hawthorne’s experience at The Custom House is documented in the introduction to The Scarlet Letter, which is titled “The Custom-House.” In this introduction, Hawthorne reflects on his time working as a surveyor and offers a detailed description of the building and its inhabitants. He paints a clear picture of the daily life at The Custom House, describing the slow pace of work, his coworkers, and the sluggishness that spread through the office.

In “The Custom-House” introduction, Hawthorne also reveals his doubt about his role as a government employee. While appreciating the steady income that the job provided, he often felt stifled by the official nature of the work and longed to return to his true passion, which was writing. This tension between his duties as a customs official and his aspirations as a writer is a central theme in the introduction, and it reflects Hawthorne’s broader struggle to balance his creative ambitions with the demands of everyday life.

Hawthorne’s time at The Custom House also provided him with a rich source of material for his stories. During his time as a surveyor, he discovered a scarlet letter “A” in the attic of the building, along with a manuscript that allegedly told the story of Hester Prynne, the protagonist of The Scarlet Letter. Although this discovery was likely a fictional device, it allowed Hawthorne to create a connection between his own life and the story he was writing, lending an air of authenticity to the novel.

In The Scarlet Letter, Hawthorne explores themes of sin, guilt, and redemption, all of which are informed by his experiences at The Custom House. The book’s introduction serves as a meditation on the nature of history and the ways in which the past influences the present. Hawthorne’s reflections on The Custom House and its role in his life add a layer of depth to the novel, making it not just a work of fiction but also a commentary on the forces that shaped American society.

Hawthorne’s connection to The Custom House has ensured that the building remains an important site in Salem. Visitors to The Custom House today can see the office where Hawthorne worked and gain a deeper understanding of the life and work of one of America’s greatest writers.

The Custom House in the 20th and 21st Centuries

Visit the Salem Custom House
Photo Credit: New England

In the years following its decline as a customs office, The Custom House went through several phases of use and neglect. By the early 20th century, the building had fallen into disrepair, and there were concerns about its preservation. However, in 1938, The Custom House was incorporated into the newly established Salem Maritime National Historic Site, the first National Historic Site in the United States.

The inclusion of The Custom House in the Salem Maritime National Historic Site marked a turning point in the building’s history. As part of this larger preservation effort, The Custom House was restored to its former look, and it became a main attraction of the site’s interpretive programs. Today, visitors can tour the building and learn about its role in Salem’s maritime history as well as its connection to Nathaniel Hawthorne.

The preservation of The Custom House is part of a broader effort to protect and interpret the historical resources of Salem. The city’s rich history as a center of international trade, as well as its role in American literature, has made it a popular destination for tourists and scholars alike. The Custom House stands as a testament to the city’s past, offering a window into the economic, political, and cultural forces that shaped early American society.

Cultural and Historical Legacy

The Custom House Salem Massachusetts History
Photo Credit: Digital Collections

The Custom House in Salem is more than just a building; it is a symbol of the city’s maritime past, the federal government’s role in regulating commerce, and the intersection of history and literature. Its architectural grandeur reflects the aspirations of a young nation seeking to establish its authority and secure its economic future. At the same time, its connection to Nathaniel Hawthorne reminds us of the ways in which historical events and institutions can shape the lives of individuals and inspire great works of art.

As part of the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, The Custom House continues to educate visitors about the importance of customs duties in the early American economy and the challenges faced by customs officials in regulating trade. The building also serves as a reminder of Salem’s once-great influence in international commerce and the ways in which the city’s fortunes rose and fell in response to broader economic trends.

The Custom House’s literary legacy, as immortalized by Nathaniel Hawthorne, ensures that it will always have a place in the American imagination. Hawthorne’s reflections on his time at The Custom House, as well as his use of the building as a setting for The Scarlet Letter, have cemented its status as a site of cultural significance. For literary fans, The Custom House represents not just a piece of history, but a place where the boundaries between fiction and reality blur, offering insight into the mind of one of America’s greatest writers.

In the 21st century, The Custom House remains a vital part of Salem’s identity. Its preservation and continued interpretation allow new generations to connect with the city’s maritime past, understand the role of the federal government in regulating commerce, and appreciate the enduring influence of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s work. As we look to the future, The Custom House stands as a reminder of the ways in which history, architecture, and literature intersect to shape our understanding of the past and inform our vision of the future.

Visiting The Custom House

Visiting The Custom House Salem Massachusetts
Photo Credit: Trip Advisor

Visiting The Custom House in Salem, Massachusetts, is a great way to immerse yourself in the city’s rich maritime history and explore the legacy of one of America’s most iconic landmarks. Here’s what you need to know to plan your visit:

Location

The Custom House is located at:

Address: 178 Derby Street, Salem, MA 01970

It is part of the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, which is managed by the National Park Service. The site includes several other historic buildings and wharves, making it a great destination for a day of exploring Salem’s maritime history.

Operating Hours

The hours of operation can vary depending on the season. Generally, The Custom House is open to the public from 1:00 PM to 4:00 PM Wednesday – Sunday during the warmer months (spring to fall), but it’s a good idea to check the official website for current hours before you visit, as they can change.

During the winter months, The Custom House may have limited hours or be closed entirely for restoration work or weather-related reasons.

Tours

Guided Tours: The National Park Service often offers guided tours of The Custom House and other historic buildings in the Salem Maritime National Historic Site. These tours are led by knowledgeable park rangers who can provide in-depth information about the history and significance of the site.

Self-Guided Tours: If you prefer to explore at your own pace, self-guided tours are also an option. Informational plaques and exhibits throughout the building provide context about the customs operations, architecture, and its literary connection to Nathaniel Hawthorne.

What to Expect

Exhibits: Inside The Custom House, you’ll find exhibits that explore Salem’s role in international trade during the 18th and 19th centuries. There are displays on the process of customs collection, the types of goods that passed through the port, and the lives of the customs officials who worked there.

Hawthorne’s Office: One of the highlights for literary enthusiasts is the opportunity to see the office where Nathaniel Hawthorne worked as a surveyor. This space is preserved to give visitors a sense of what it would have been like during Hawthorne’s time.

Architecture: Visitors can also appreciate the Federal-style architecture of the building, including its iconic golden eagle perched atop the roof.

Other Nearby Attractions

Since The Custom House is part of the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, you can also explore other nearby attractions:

Derby Wharf: Take a stroll along Derby Wharf, which offers beautiful views of the harbor and access to the Derby Wharf Light Station.

The Narbonne House and The West India Goods Store: These buildings offer additional insights into Salem’s trading past.

How to Get There

By Car: Salem is about a 30-minute drive from Boston. Parking is available in public lots around Salem, but be aware that it can fill up quickly during peak tourist seasons.

Accessibility

The Custom House is accessible to visitors with mobility impairments. However, some areas of the Salem Maritime National Historic Site may have uneven ground due to their historic nature, so it’s a good idea to check with the National Park Service in advance if you have specific accessibility concerns.

Plan Ahead

It’s always best to check the official National Park Service website for the Salem Maritime National Historic Site before visiting, as it provides the most up-to-date information on hours, tours, and any temporary closures or events happening at The Custom House.

Visiting The Custom House offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and experience a pivotal piece of American history, right in the heart of Salem.

The Custom House Reviews

The Salem Custom House
Photo Credit: Lost New England

“This is an interesting free stop if you’re already in the area, though it may not be worth a special trip. The highlight is the vault, which appears to be made of wood but is actually fireproof and weighs three tons—a reminder that looks can be deceiving. You’ll also find some information about the duties and tariffs collection process from when Salem was a bustling international port.”

“You’ll find valuable insights into how commerce operated in the colonies, along with information on Nathaniel Hawthorne, likely the most notable employee. The site is well maintained, and the National Parks staff are friendly and knowledgeable, ready to answer any questions you may have.”

“This site is free to visit and offers fascinating information about the early days of the Customs service. Millions of dollars in trade flowed through Salem’s port, and the duties collected helped finance our young nation. Salem’s rich history is well worth exploring for those interested, and the NPS historical district is an excellent free option for diving into the past.”

“If you have never seen a custom house this makes for an informative first. Ask the guide to fill you in on all the details. Ours did a wonderful job explaining things to his audience. Nathaniel Hawthorne worked there, so if you are a fan, you’ll want to check it out.”

Questions and Answers

The Custom House Questions and Answers
Photo Credit: Digital Common Wealth

Where is the Salem Custom House located?

The Salem Custom House is located at 178 Derby Street within the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, which is part of the National Park Service. It sits along the waterfront and is near other important maritime landmarks like the Derby Wharf and Friendship of Salem, a replica tall ship.

Who worked at the Salem Custom House?

One of the most famous employees of the Salem Custom House was the author Nathaniel Hawthorne, who worked there as a Surveyor of the Port from 1846 to 1849. His experiences at the Custom House inspired the introduction to his famous novel, “The Scarlet Letter.” The site today has exhibits that explain Hawthorne’s connection to the building.

When was the Salem Custom House built?

The current Custom House building was constructed in 1819 and is part of a larger group of buildings associated with Salem’s maritime history. It replaced an earlier structure on the same site.

What can visitors see at the Salem Custom House today?

Visitors to the Salem Custom House can see the office spaces as they would have appeared when in use, complete with period furniture and artifacts related to Salem’s maritime trade. Exhibits include items like the eagle statue that once adorned the top of the building, historical documents, and displays about Salem’s role in international trade. There are also exhibits about Nathaniel Hawthorne’s time working there.

Is the Salem Custom House part of the Salem Maritime National Historic Site?

Yes, the Salem Custom House is one of several buildings within the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, which is the first National Historic Site in the United States, established in 1938. The site preserves and interprets Salem’s rich maritime history, with the Custom House being a key feature.

What are some interesting artifacts found in the Salem Custom House?

Inside the Custom House, visitors can see old ledgers, documents, and other items related to the day-to-day operations of the custom office. One of the most famous artifacts is the golden eagle that once adorned the roof of the Custom House, which has since been replaced with a replica but can still be viewed inside.

How long should I plan to visit the Salem Custom House?

A typical visit to the Salem Custom House takes about 30 minutes to an hour, depending on how much time you spend exploring the exhibits and learning about the history of the building. Many visitors combine their visit with a tour of the Salem Maritime National Historic Site for a more comprehensive understanding of Salem’s maritime past.

Photos of Inside The Custom House